Pottery glazes, underglazes and decoration

Glaze sets and pints from AMACO, Mayco, Penguin Pottery, Sax and Speedball, underglazes and pencils, transfers, wax resist and brushes, with each maker's cone and food-use statement.

Tea bowl in a mottled dark brown and amber glaze
Photo: Fæ, CC BY 2.0, via Flickr
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What's in the pottery glazes category?

Pottery glazes here range from 2 oz beginner sets to 64 oz jars. Glazes melt into glass on bisqueware; underglazes are colored slips for painting detail that you usually cover with a clear glaze. Around them are the decoration tools: underglaze pencils and pens, printed transfers, gold overglaze, wax resist for keeping feet clean, gum solution and brushes.

Every glaze is made for a firing range, and that range has to match your clay and your kiln.

How do you choose a pottery glaze?

  • Cone range first. Low-fire lines list cone 06–05 (Sax, Mayco Elements) or 06–04 (Penguin Low Fire Clear). Mid-fire lines list cone 5–6 (AMACO Potter's Choice, Penguin sets, Mayco Stoneware). Some underglazes span 06–10.
  • Food-use statement. Read the exact wording. Mayco Stroke & Coat Kit #1 lists food- and dinnerware-safe when fired according to directions; Penguin cone 5–6 sets say suitable for food contact when fired to the specified cone; AMACO Velvet says not for food contact unless covered with a tested glaze; Mayco Jungle Gems and Penguin Raku say not for dinnerware.
  • Finish and behavior. Gloss, matte, crystal and float glazes behave differently on vertical walls. Test on a tile first.
  • Format. 2 oz sets are good for sampling colors; pints are better for dipping or a favorite liner glaze.
Food safety is about the finished potA maker's food-safe statement applies only when the glaze is applied and fired as directed on a compatible clay. Under-firing or mixing glazes can change the result. If you sell functional ware, consider lab leach testing. See the FDA's guidance on lead in glazed pottery and our food-safe hub.Source: FDA

Which glazes suit you?

Glaze mistakes to avoid

  • Firing a cone 5–6 glaze on low-fire clay, or the other way round.
  • Glazing the foot. Wax resist and a wiped foot ring keep glaze off the shelf.
  • Applying too thick, which leads to running and crawling. See glaze defects.
  • Assuming "non-toxic" means "food-safe". They are different statements.
  • Skipping test tiles. Read how to glaze pottery before your first load.

Glazes & decoration: questions

Are pottery glazes food safe?
Only when the maker states it and you fire as directed. Several glazes here carry that statement; others say not for dinnerware. Testing is the only way to confirm a finished pot.
Can you glaze pottery without a kiln?
Real ceramic glaze needs a kiln to melt. Without one, use acrylic paint and sealer on air-dry clay, knowing the result is decorative only.
What is the difference between underglaze and glaze?
Underglaze is a colored slip for painting detail and does not form a glassy coat on its own in most lines; glaze melts into glass. See underglaze vs glaze.
What cone glaze should I buy?
The cone your clay is made for. Most home stoneware is cone 5–6; low-fire clay is cone 06–04. Check the cone chart.
How many coats of glaze do I need?
Follow the label. Speedball's underglaze, for example, lists 2–3 liberal coats; many brushing glazes list three.
Why is my glaze crawling or pinholing?
Common causes are dusty bisque, thick application and fast firing. Our glaze defects guide goes through each one.