Guide

Glaze defects: crawling, pinholes, crazing and shivering

Every glaze fault leaves clues. Read them, change one thing at a time, and the next firing gets better.

Updated November 2026 · 7 min read

Crackled glaze on the rim of a stoneware pot
Photo: The Manic Macrographer, CC BY 2.0, via Flickr
The short version
  • Most glaze defects trace back to four things: application, bisque condition, firing and glaze-to-clay fit.
  • Crawling (bare patches) usually starts with dusty bisque, thick or double coats, or glaze that cracked as it dried.
  • Pinholes come from gas escaping through the melt: thick glaze, fast firing, underfired bisque, rough trimmed surfaces.
  • Crazing and shivering are thermal expansion mismatches. Shivering can shed sharp flakes, so retire those pieces from food use.

Glaze defects are frustrating, but they are rarely mysterious. Each one has a look that points to a short list of causes, and most can be fixed by changing how you apply the glaze, how you bisque, or how you fire. A few, like crazing, come from the glaze and clay simply not fitting each other.

This guide uses Digitalfire’s technical reference library, written by ceramic chemist Tony Hansen, as its main source for causes and fixes, and Orton’s cone chart for temperatures. It is written for potters using commercial ready-mixed glazes; if you mix your own, the recipe-level fixes in the Digitalfire pages go further.

Common glaze defects at a glance

DefectWhat you seeMost likely causesFirst fix to try
CrawlingGlaze pulled into islands with bare clay betweenDusty or oily bisque, thick or double coats, glaze cracked while dryingClean bisque, thinner single coat
PinholesTiny holes, often down to the clayThick glaze, fast firing, low bisque, rough trimmed areasThinner coat, slower end of firing, hotter bisque
CrazingFine web of cracks in the glazeGlaze contracts more than the clay (expansion mismatch)Different glaze or clay pairing
ShiveringGlaze flaking off edges and rimsGlaze expansion too low for the clayChange glaze or clay; retire affected ware from food use
RunningGlaze pooled at the foot or on the shelfToo thick, over-fired, glaze made for a lower coneThinner at the bottom, check cone, use a catch cookie
Dry or rough surfaceMatte or sandy where gloss was expectedUnderfired, or applied too thinWitness cone check, thicker coat

Source: Digitalfire Reference Library

Crawling: bare patches and beads

Digitalfire defines crawling as molten glaze pulling itself into islands, leaving bare body between them. Most cases start before the firing: the dried glaze layer cracks or loses its grip on the pot, and the melt then pulls back from the cracks.

Glaze crawling into beads along the edge of a plate
Crawling: the glaze has pulled back into beads at the edge, leaving bare clay.Photo: pinmonkeypress, CC BY 2.0, via Flickr
  • Dusty, oily or damp bisque. Digitalfire recommends brushing or blowing off dust rather than washing, and drying the bisque before glazing.
  • Too thick, or double layers. Thick coats and second coats over dry glaze shrink and crack. Apply thinner, and avoid stacking coats beyond the label’s guidance.
  • Rough handling of glazed pots before firing, or force-drying them, which loosens the coat.
  • Wet ware loaded into the kiln. Let glaze dry before firing.
  • Underglaze or colorant under glaze. Heavy, unfluxed colorants can repel glaze; thin them or use a product made to sit under that glaze.

Before you glaze again, run a finger over the dried glaze. If it is cracked or powdery, wash it off, dry the pot and start again.

Pinholes and pits

Pinholes form when gas from the clay body or glaze bubbles up through the melt and the surface does not heal over before it stiffens. Digitalfire lists these causes and fixes:

  • Thick glaze. Thicker layers pinhole more than thinner ones.
  • Fast firing. Quick schedules leave less time for gases to escape and the surface to heal.
  • Low bisque. Bisquing well above about 1,800 °F helps expel body gases before glazing; on Orton’s chart cone 06 is 1,828 °F and cone 04 is 1,945 °F at a medium rate.
  • Rough trimmed areas pinhole more readily than smooth thrown surfaces. Smooth trimmed feet with a damp sponge or rib.
  • A drop-and-hold program, easing to peak, dropping 100–200 °F and holding, can help heal the surface. Slow cooling through the melt range can help too.

Crazing: the web of fine cracks

Crazing is a mismatch in thermal expansion: on cooling, the glaze contracts more than the clay underneath, so it ends up in tension and cracks. Digitalfire says 95% of the time the solution is to adjust the glaze’s thermal expansion, and that firing changes, slower cooling and thickness changes generally do not fix the underlying mismatch.

Fine crazing cracks across a white glaze
Crazing: a web of fine cracks across a glaze.Photo: Lara604, CC BY-SA 2.0, via Wikimedia Commons
  • With commercial glazes, the practical fix is a different glaze or clay pairing. Many glaze makers list the clay bodies they test with.
  • Delayed crazing can appear weeks later, after repeated hot-and-cold use or when porous low-fire bodies absorb water and expand.
  • Test new combinations. Digitalfire describes an ice-water and boiling-water stress test (IWCT) to reveal crazing early.
Crazed food wareA maker’s food-safe statement describes an intact, correctly fired glaze. A crazed surface is no longer that. Digitalfire treats crazed functional ware as defective; many potters keep such pieces for decor only. If you sell, fix the fit and consider lab leach testing.Source: Digitalfire, Glaze crazing

Clear liner glazes in our catalogue that list food-contact suitability when fired as directed include:

Shivering: glaze flaking off rims

Shivering is the opposite of crazing. The glaze has too low a thermal expansion for the clay, ends up under too much compression, and pops off in flakes, especially at rims, edges and convex curves. Digitalfire calls it serious: a few shivered pieces can mean more will follow, and razor-sharp flakes can end up in food or drink.

  • Stop using affected pieces for food and drink.
  • Change the glaze or the clay body. A less mature or different clay can change the fit.
  • Check engobes and slips under the glaze; a weak layer there can be the release point.
Sharp edgesShivered glaze flakes can be razor-sharp. Digitalfire advises that affected ware should not be used for food or drink.Source: Digitalfire, Glaze shivering

Running, dry glaze and the one-cone problem

Many glaze surface problems are simply a firing that was one cone off. On Orton’s chart, one cone in the mid-range is roughly 30 to 65 °F at a medium heating rate. That is easy to miss with an aging thermocouple and no witness cone.

Blue and brown glaze running down the side of a bowl
Glaze running and pooling down the side of a bowl.Photo: Tobyotter, CC BY 2.0, via Flickr

Mid-range cones are close together

Orton medium-rate temperatures (108 °F/hr), °F

Cone 4: 2124°2124°Cone 4Cone 5: 2167°2167°Cone 5Cone 6: 2232°2232°Cone 6Cone 7: 2262°2262°Cone 7
Source: Orton Ceramic Foundation
  • Glaze ran onto the shelf: too thick at the bottom, over-fired, too long a hold, or a low-fire glaze in a mid-fire kiln. Keep the bottom inch thinner and fire runny glazes on a catch cookie.
  • Dry, rough or chalky surface: underfired or applied too thin. Check a witness cone; if the target cone did not bend, extend the firing or check the thermocouple.
  • Colors off: heavy or thin application and cone both change color. Compare with a test tile fired in the same spot.
Orton cone temperature chartCheck how far apart your cones really are at your kiln’s heating rate.

How to troubleshoot a glaze defect

  1. Name the defect

    Compare with the table above. Look with a strong side light and a magnifier.

  2. Check the witness cone

    If the target cone did not bend, or the guard cone did, fix the firing first. It is the cheapest variable to rule out.

  3. Look at where it happens

    Defects only on trimmed feet, only on the bottom shelf or only on thick areas narrow the cause quickly.

  4. Change one thing

    Thinner coat, cleaner bisque, hotter bisque or a slower end to the firing. Change one variable per test so you know what worked.

  5. Make test tiles

    Fire a few tiles of the same clay and glaze before risking a whole load.

  6. Keep a log

    Write down clay, glaze, coats, bisque cone, program and result. Patterns show up within a few firings.

Fix it, or switch glazes?

Application and firing problems are worth fixing, because the same changes help every glaze you use. Fit problems are different: if a commercial glaze crazes or shivers on your clay, no amount of careful dipping will change that.

  • Fix it when the defect changes with thickness, shelf position or firing: crawling, pinholes, running, dry surfaces.
  • Switch the pairing when the defect appears on every piece regardless of application: crazing or shivering. Try the same glaze on a different clay body, or a different glaze on your clay.
  • Ask the maker which clay bodies a glaze was tested on, and whether it is meant for liners, outsides or both.

Prevention checklist

Kiln firing cost calculatorEstimate what a kiln firing costs from kiln kW, firing hours and duty cycle, using EIA average residential…Orton cone temperature chartOrton self-supporting cone temperatures for cones 022 to 10 at slow, medium and fast heating rates, in °F…

Questions

What are the most common glaze defects?
Crawling, pinholes, crazing, shivering, running and an underfired dry surface. Each has a distinct look and a short list of causes.
Why is my glaze crawling?
Usually dusty or damp bisque, glaze applied too thick or in double layers, or a dried coat that cracked before firing. Clean the bisque and apply a thinner single coat.
What causes pinholes in glaze?
Gas escaping through the melt. Thick glaze, fast firing, low bisque temperature and rough trimmed surfaces all make pinholes more likely.
Is crazed pottery safe to eat from?
Treat it with caution. A crazed glaze is no longer the intact surface a maker’s food-safe statement describes. Many potters keep crazed pieces for decor only.
Can I refire a pot to fix glaze defects?
Sometimes. Pinholes and underfired glaze can improve with a refire, sometimes with a thin extra coat. Crazing and shivering usually do not, because they come from glaze fit.
What is the difference between crazing and shivering?
Crazing is fine cracks because the glaze shrinks more than the clay. Shivering is glaze flaking off because it shrinks less. Shivering can produce sharp flakes.

Sources

  1. Digitalfire, Crawling: causes and remedies
  2. Digitalfire, Glaze crawling (glossary)
  3. Digitalfire, Pinholing
  4. Digitalfire, Glaze crazing
  5. Digitalfire, Glaze shivering
  6. Orton Ceramic Foundation, pyrometric cones
  7. FDA, Questions and answers on lead-glazed traditional pottery